I prefer to use 100% wool because it stands up to play better than acrylics which tend to ball up over time. Because dolls will be played with by children, they will need cleaning from time to time. These dolls should be knit using worsted weight yarn. ALL FACES should be knit in the stockinette stitch. Just like clothing, the horizontal lines of the garter stitch tends to make the dolls look plumper, whereas the stockinette stitch with its vertical lines, makes the dolls appear thinner. The stockinette stitch creates vertical lines and a smoother surface. The garter stitch produces horizontal lines and creates a nubbier surface. You can chose to knit the bodies and arms in a garter stitch (knit every row) or a stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row). Then, there is another set of directions for making: First, there are directions for the four larger dolls: As time goes on we will share many different projects that begin with this basic doll pattern. The directions are for 6 sizes. When we do, we will refer you back to this pattern, and share alterations, embellishments, and perhaps a story or two □īelow are the general directions for making knit dolls. Over time we will be using this basic pattern to make many different dolls. We have created a basic doll pattern in 6 sizes: 12″, 10″, 8″, 5″, 4″, and 3″, enough to create a whole family or village. įew things bring more joy to a child than snuggling with their special doll. If you would like to add a Gnome Hat, the pattern can be found HERE. Those expanded directions for a Basic Knit In the Round Doll can be found HERE. Also, directions are giving for adding a face and hair. For a more experienced knitter, I have created directions for knitting the dolls in the round, using double pointed needles, thus eliminating the seams. They are knitted flat and are sewn together. This doll's hair was sooooo wonky and long that I trimmed it to make it look better.These designs were created with beginner knitters in mind. Sometimes I trim the hair, sometimes I don't. This isn't some wonderfully, fantastic doll, it's supposed to be whacked! Don't worry about perfection on this one! Hand stitch the hair in place along the stitching line on the yarn. Sorry about the fuzzy photo, if you look closely you can see the white stitching line that goes through the yarn to secure it. Slip the yarn off your hand and use your sewing machine on a straight stitch to sew right through the middle of your yarn. The more open your hand is, the longer the strands of 'hair' you will have. Wrap about 10 wraps of Lion Brand Fun Fur (or whatever yarn you have in your stash) around you hand. Do the neatest job you can sewing up the seam. The photos I took of stitching up the open seam were terrible! Sorry about that. Stuff! I use some poly fill, but you can take apart an old stuffed animal and re-use the stuffing, or use pieces of quilt batting. I use a tube to help turning it right side out, but using a dowel or the eraser end of a pencil works fine, too. I also trim really close to the outside curving seams (you can see how close I clipped the seam around the head.) I clip everywhere there is an inside seam so rounded seams are smoother when you are done stuffing. You can see the little clips on the inside seams. Sew all the way around the doll and clip the seams. It makes it easier to sew around the curves smoothly. Set your stitch length to 1.5 (or whatever a small stitch length is on your machine). You can do it after, no worries, but it's easier when you don't have to bury the knot. Transfer the marks to the upper arm so you don't sew there.ĭammit! I forgot to sew on the face before I started sewing! It's easiest to sew the eyes and mouth on before you sew the doll together. I'm a fan of rotary cutters, but not when the curves are this tight!Īll cut out. Pin your pattern and cut out with scissors.
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